Series- Destination India- Agra, UttarPradesh

The moment one mentions Agra images of Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri come flashing. All tourists find a visit to Agra incomplete without a visit to these monuments- even the Red Fort is visited by hordes. While agreeing that these places are definitely worth a visit, Pashatuks finds two other monuments a "must see" more than the much touted,much visited monuments.

The Itimad-Ud-Daulah, the tomb made by Noor Jahan, for her father, by the banks of the once flowing now stagnant Yamuna river, and Sikandra the final resting place of the greatest Mughal of all-Akbar.

Our trip to Agra started in the wee hours of the morning.Team Pashatuks,shivering in their warmwear tanked up the vehicle and hit for the road. We took the super smooth Yamuna expressway where the speedometer doesnt stop at the permitted 100kmph.

The best time to visit Agra are the winter months but be prepared for the fog and low visibility - we got dense waves of fog and the car speeds were down to almost 10 kmph at certain sections. 

Mustard fields dot both sides of the expressway, right from the start at NOIDA and follow us through,right upto Agra. From the expressway when one enters Agra, there are big markers pointing to the monument and in no time we manage to to park our vehicle right outside the tomb.No parking hassles and a very small walk to the ticket counter. For Indian nationals entry is INR 10 and for foreign passport holders INR110. Still cameras are not charged but there is a nominal fee of INR 25 for video cameras.

We will not get into the archaeological detailing of the place,but the artisans working on this tomb have done a far better job on marble and precious stones than the Taj. And we have found the place to be uncluttered everytime we have been there.The environs are peaceful and the architecture draws gasps of admiration at many places,specially the concealed domes. Its not difficult to sit by the now dying river where the water depth is of the ankle length of dogs,and imagine the glory and grandeur of the days gone by. We while away our time there indulging in photo-ops.And then realise that its time to move onto the next place.

  

Sikandra or the final resting place of the greatest Mughal emperor-Abkar, third in the lineage of the Mughal Dynasty. The tomb lies on the Agra- Mathura Highway and the expressway is not recommended for this tomb.Do watch the Video by Pashatuks on this place on youtube for loads of inside information. Another beautiful monument, maintained by the archaeological survey of India.Akbar was the most secular of all mughals and his respect for all religions is reflected on the architecture all around as one finds swastikas(hinduism),cross(christianity),lotus(budhism) dotted all over the main entrance or the Din e illahi gate(din e illahi was the religion started by Akbar which believed in one unified God).History states that he had many wives of different faith and his successor Jahangir was infact born of a hindu mother Jodhabai.

The final remains of his Christian wife Miriam is close to the tomb Palace of Sikandra.

One finds that the building style of Sikandra is similar to that of Panch Mahal of Fatehpur Sikri.

The entry fees here are same as the Itimad Ud Daulah and theres ample parking space. Within the premises of this complex one can also find the tomb of Sikander Lodi after whom the place Sikandra is named.Pashatuks explores the place once again and finds many new things that they didnt notice before- like the freely moving antelopes,the reduction of the langur menance(we didnt spot a single one of these monkeys this time).The Kanch mahal(palace of Mirrors) of Jahangir was under renovation and we were not allowed access this time.

Without realising it it was sundown and we had to hit back for Delhi- an otherwise smooth two and a half hour drive otherwise,but given our morning experience with Fog, we played it safe and returned home,smug and satisfied of completing yet another journey.

PashaTuks stumbles upon- New Delhis multi-cultural fusion pot- Paharganj.

A territory unexplored despite nearly 3 decades of life in this city.

Paharganj-in the heart of the Capital notorious for its criminal and unconventional outlook for the sedate mentality, houses perhaps one of the most interesting places on the "must visit" for the real traveler- the explorer. Most people have only heard about the number of criminal incidents that routinely occur there and like to stay away from the place.
It is however the hub of international budget travelers,better known as the back packers and the  travelling student community as accommodation and food is reasonable and cuisine multi-cultural.
 A lifestyle unexpected, seedy hotels, bright lights, narrow lanes,international back packers, multi cultural aromas teasing the senses.

 A walk up very steep stairs-4 flights in all and a completely different world. A rooftop restaurant with twinkling stars as the only cover and a melting pot of people from all over the world. We were the only Indians. The meal we had was a combination of authentic Mexican,Israeli and German. Schinitzel, Enchlidas, beef sizzlers and mozarella cheese and mashed potatos washed down with exorbitantly priced vodka..the newly introduced e rikkas was our mode of conveyance- the desi tuktuks. 

The bare chested,completely stoned, long haired foreigner wearing a rust coloured harem pants with multi coloured kamarbandhs kept strumming his guitar and soulfully singing aum namah shivah, while his equally happy partner high on ganja(marijuana), listened on. The entire evening was living out what we have only read about as hippie culture and very heavy on the senses. Fulltime dum maaro dum.
PashaTuks suggests -please park your vehicles at the nearby Connaught Place(Rajiv Chowk) parking - the lanes are narrow and parking impossible.Use the battery operated e-rickshaws plying dime a dozen. They charge INR 10 per head. Avoid wearing heels as all the eateries are roof top, which means normally the 4th floor and the stairs steep.
Dont be fooled by the Indian sounding names.Almost all eatery offers a wide choice of international cuisines at very affordable rates.
Go with an absolute open mind and do not judge people, who might be different in race or culture.Its one happy world there- enjoy the experience

Pashatuks Recommends-Things to do on a winter holiday- Go picnicking this winter

In Tuks own words "I never thought that the men could pull it off with such style and elan".

Sitting over a friends place place over lunch on Sunday, we decided that winter was receding rapidly and we needed to have a picnic. Out came the phone and the calls were made to the people we really wanted to be with. Just one family couldn't make it due to some prior commitment but every one else said yes to the concept, because our words to them were"no idea of menu and venue,but lets hit it for the  Indian Republic day".

Some men  got the brainwave that the food would be cooked at the venue itself and all men joined the yes brigade.The ladies were apprehensive(thats a mild statement for the loud protests the rest of us made) about getting any food at all, given the idea that the men would cook while we women would just chill.

Like all our great gatherings this event too had to have a logistics party, when everyone gathered at Pashatuks place over dinner to prepare for the picnic and responsibilities were allocated.Some got to organise breakfast,some got to organise the snacks,the rest had to procure the raw material.   The meal was simple- Mixed vegetables, dal, mutton curry and rice would be prepared at the venue while Rotis would come from the dhaba nearby.

Pashatuks managed to organise a farm house in Mehrauli on the outskirts of Delhi - a private property with load of privacy where we could do our own thing and no one would object.

All the processing work was done at the logistics party itself, mutton marinated, wood logs purchased and we were out of our respective homes by 8am. An  hour long drive saw all of our cars getting checked at various police barricades and it was hilarious explaning the firewood, utensils and dog, but we did manage to convince the Delhi police that we were not terrorists.

Then we got off the main road and got onto the dirt tracks- our car had no problems negotiating the rough terrain, but we could sense the mental agony of the other car owners which were low slung.However the entire lot of apprehension and negativity of the last 2 days( we are never going to get a meal, lets take some back up maggi noodles and some quick snacks, you guys are irresponsible we are getting old etc etc) flew right out of our minds as the caretaker opened the gates of the farm.

Well manicured lawns, with a swimming pool and an extremely clean western toilet reassured the naysayers.And potable drinking water was available freely too. What more does one need on a picnic. With the sun beating on our shoulders , the warmwear started coming off.Very soon we decided that it would be doing injustice to the springy soft grass if we had our shoes on- so barefoot we became.

There is something truly liberating about walking barefoot in the park. Breakfast was quick-fix- sandwiches, bananas and eggs.

 Then the brick oven was set up and the cooking started in full tempo. The good natured sniggers continued as the men toiled on in silence and the demands of tea, snacks and alcohol started coming to them, just the way the demands come to us at home.

The food smell wafting upto our nostrils in the clear weather suddenly had our stomachs churning for food,but we bravely suppressed our hunger and smiled.No one can call us unsporting. Most of us being small town people were enjoying the freedom of open spaces and the ones who weren't were enjoying the novelty and thrill of doing your own thing. The children were playing football, badminton, cricket, with us adults joining in off and on. Everyone was doing their own thing. Neuton,our labrador, our travel mascot made a wonderful fielder during the cricket match- the only problem was getting him to give back the ball.

Suddenly we realized food was ready and the ladies can honestly say that they never had better food. Maybe we were hungry and mentally at peace, maybe the expectations were lower, but the food tasted ethereally good,  almost divine and we were in a state of Nirvana.All the detractors to the idea of cooking outside were silenced because like always, actions spoke louder than words.But we are good losers. We made a mistake in underestimating the men and we were gracious enough to admit it.

So amidst a lot of good natured bonhomie and ribbing it was decided that the tea had to be made in the dying embers of the brick oven,and two ladies were deputed, oops sorry they offered to do the honours and all of us had some extremely good sugary tea.

Recycled glasses, plastic spoons, Neuton eating off Styrofoam plates - who cared- minor trivia.

Reluctantly with the sun going down and the warm-wear back on our bodies we bid adieu to this wonderful day and came back home, exhausted but deliriously happy. Nothing like a good old fashioned picnic to set the mood soaring!

Pashatuks recommends all you wonderful people to try a picnic at least once every winters.

Series- Destination India- Wagah ,India- Pakistan border-Punjab

Wagah, the last  border post for India is a tourist destination for its flamboyant "beating the retreat"(where soldiers retire for the day after lowering of the flags- an international practice) ceremony every evening, when the border gates are opened on each side for a specified amount of time and the every sentry from both countries put up a parade display, each trying to outdo the other country in terms of flamboyance and excellence. Every sentry in the parade is handpicked keeping in mind the flamboyance and display of might displayed by either country.The Sentries are exceptionally tall and imposing with terrific personas.
The distance to Wagah from Amritsar is around 30 kms and is well connected by public transport.
Pashatuks went by their own conveyance, which wasnt a very good idea as the designated parking for common tourists is quite a walk from the place of the event.

As we inched closer to the border, the scenario grew more dusty and rugged. Huge signboards claiming that we were reaching the border, hawkers on both sides of the dusty road peddling their wares in the typical bollywood film mode put us on an imagination overdrive with the adrenalin pumping. The imagination started looking for infiltrators. Cold logic made the soul sad that the same people, having the same culture, same language are now divided by a border and not accessible to each other. Multiple layers of electrified wires on both side of road are placed to ensure that there is no crossing over without proper documentation. Thats what politics do to any nation.

There are galleries built both sides of the stretch where "beating the retreat" takes place and the parade on the Indian side was led by these two young soldiers , both over 6 feet. It was enthralling to see the feet move upto nearly 6 feet in unison as the crowds went wild cheering "Bharat mata ki jai" and similar cheers could be heard from the other side.What you see in the picture below is the gates that open out at the designated time when the parade starts.The Indian side looks elegant and quiet while the Pakistan gates grand.

All too soon the parade was over and we all hit back for the parking lot,feeling distinctly patriotic and in sync with the armed forces. The walk back made us realise how fortunate we are to be living in the largest democracy of the world and instilled a sense of pride within us.
A few things to keep in mind if you want a good experience of this show- avoid all national holidays if you can. We went on the weekend of Easter and it seemed as if there were waves of humanity flowing.
However since we were guests of the state machinery, we were guided to premium seats and managed to catch the show.
If one has to go on national holidays make sure you have VIP seats allocated to you well in advance and make sure sure you reach early.Because VIP seats or not the moment the crowds swell,it becomes a free for all.
We were told that the version of this parade at the Ferozepur border was probably better and grander- but for Pashatuks its still hearsay. Till such time , we see it with our own eyes we reserve our comments on it

Series- Destination India- Amritsar,Punjab

Amritsar in Punjab is an important destination for tourists and pilgrims alike. It is also an important destination in terms of politics, being the last big city before the border to our "friendly"neighbor,Pakistan,
One can club a visit to Amritsar with a trip to Shimla, Kullu, Manali or a trip to Dharamshala and Dalhousie. Or one can even make a trip on an extended weekend trip from Delhi.
The distance from Delhi to Amritsar is around 450 Kms and can be approached by train, air or by road. Pashatuks has done the trip both by road and by rail.

Apart from other trains,Indian railways run the premium Shatabdi Express from Delhi, one in the morning and the other in the evening. It takes around 6 hours and Pashatuks has found it to be the most convenient. Pashatuks has covered the same distance by road and has been distracted by extended stoppages at the beautiful mustard fields,sunflower fields and the plethora of eateries called Dhabas serving the tastiest of piping hot Indian stuffed Paranthas with huge dollops of home made local butter. Going by road is a good idea if one has more than an extended weekend to spare- loads of memories to last a lifetime can be captured,but for people with time constraints, the train is recommended.

Pashatuks starts every trip to Amritsar with a trip to the famed Golden temple. What you see in the left is the imposing entrance to the temple complex. Footwear is left at the entrance and feet washed in the flowing water. The complex is open 24 hours, try to get in the wee hours of the morning for the peace and tranquility that one seeks in any religious place.We are not overtly religious,but the sikhs practice the philosophy that in the eyes of God all are equal and do not discriminate on basis of caste, creed or colour.
It is heartening to see a corporate honcho sweeping the steps of the complex alongside the regular sweeper. For the uninitiated it is important that you remember that the head is covered at all times within the complex and skin show is frowned upon.

We take the prescribed route to the main shrine-despite the serpentine line, there is a strange calm among people, who are unusually serene and wait their turn for their time at the sanctum sanctorum. On the way out , we are served piping hot "parshad",comprising of rawa served in piping hot ghee, better known as suji halwa.We then make our way to the 24 hour community kitchen where one is served food. We are lovingly served our breakfast, which we eat sitting on the floor. There is facility for wheel chair for senior citizens and disabled.
One can even offer service to the temple voluntarily, which most visitors do.
The soul satiated we leave the premises believing in the goodness of human beings(albeit temporarily). Do not skip the museum at the entrance- there is a lot of Sikh history packed there.

We walk out and walk into the Jallianwala Bagh Complex, where the massacre of thousands of innocents in 1919 took place. General Dyer managed to evoke a lot of negativity in a lot of us who were born post independence.
The complex itself did not impress me as the tourism department has made the place too touristy and not let us soak in the feel of history. By barricading the martyrs well where people jumped to save themselves from the bullets,we felt shortchanged.

On the right the marked boxes are the places where the bullets hit. It was a somber thought indeed imagining the unarmed innocents trying to scale the walls as the rain of bullets hailed upon them.

When in Amritsar,one must not forget to taste the savories that the city is famed for- butter chicken made in a way that is so different from what gets to eat anywhere else,Amritsari fish tikkas, jalebis, malaidar lassi,kachoris and what have you.
If one is in a mood for shopping, the tailoring of the salwar kameej is to die for, the cuts, the stitching, the fabrics,the rates..oo lala. And they deliver in hours. Our next destination in this series on the same belt is the Wagah border and Tarn Taran.

The Durgiana temple- a Hindu temple with distinct gurdwara architecture

The temple pond had the biggest fish.But they couldnt be touched!

Destination India- holidays galore- the planner unleashed

2014 saw us taking off on short vacations with many extended weekends. 2015 promises to be better still. Going by what we see on the calender, a casual leave here or there used wisely could lead to many happy journeys. Check it out people and plan well in advance. Pashatuks finds that over the 12 month phase just 7 leaves(not at all a difficult option) need to be adjusted to avail these weekends.  Financially the year might leave the wallets empty- but the year promises to be rich with memories and experiences

January

1st Thursday New Year’s Day
2nd Friday — Skip work; they will understand.
3rd  Saturday
4th  Sunday

January

23 Friday — Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Jayanti (Kolkata)
24 Saturday
25 Sunday
26 Monday  Republic Day

 Two slots of 4 days each-Pashatuks recommends Take off for any seaside, Rajasthan or Madhya Pradesh(the heat is bearable in these two states during winters).For people looking for snow and ice a trip up the Himalayas can be fun too

February

14 Saturday
15 Sunday
16 Monday -Skip work, because Valentine’s Day long weekend!
17 Tuesday — Maha Shivratri

One slot of 4 days- Pashatuks recommends- Same as January - try GOA carnival if you can 

March
6 Friday — Holi (Festival of colours)
7 Saturday
8 Sunday 

One slot of 3 days-Pashatuks recommends-anyplace nearby to chill out and recharge.The weather is bordering from pleasant to hot. So keep that in mind. Great discounts for accommodation in the hills

April
3 Friday — Good Friday
4 Saturday
5 Sunday

April
11 Saturday
12 Sunday
13 Monday — Take leave
14 Tuesday— Ambedkar Jayanti, Tamil New Year.

Two slots- one 3 days and one 4 days. Pashatuks Recommends- seaside or hills

May
1 Friday — Labour Day; Maharashtra Day
2 Saturday
3 Sunday
4 Monday — Buddha Purnima 

One slot of 4 days-Pashatuks recommends- make the most of it because there is going to be a lull of these sneaky extended weekends.Dont bother about the heat

August
15 Saturday
16 Sunday
17 Monday — Skip work; you haven’t had a break since May!
18 Tuesday — Parsi New Year

Now this is a tricky one- the 18th August holiday is not applicable to people all across the country- so do check it before making your monsoon holiday plans

September

17 Thursday — Ganesh Chaturthi
18  Friday — Skip work
19  Saturday
20  Sunday

September
24 Thursday — Bakri Id
25  Friday — Skip work
26  Saturday
27  Sunday

Two slots of 4 days each. Pashatuks recommends Kerala and all zones enjoying good monsoons. Try the North Eastern States.

October
2 Friday — Gandhi Jayanti
3 Saturday
4 Sunday

October

22 Thursday—Dussehra
23 Friday — Take leave
24 Saturday
25 Sunday

Two slots - a 3 day and a 4 day slot- weather perfect for any travel all across the country.Pashatuks Recommends Do try and catch the dushera festival at Mysore

November
7 Saturday
8  Sunday
9  Monday — Dhanteras
10 Tuesday — Naraka Chaturdashi or take leave
11 Wednesday—Diwali (Lakshmi Puja)
12 Thursday—Diwali (Balipratipada) or take leave
13 Friday—Bhaidooj14 Saturday
15 Sunday

The longest break in the season- 9  days. Pashatuks recommends that you plan well in advance because everyone has the same idea.Pashatuks plans to hit for Leh ladakh- anyone wants to join in?

December
24 Thursday — Eid-e-Milad
25 Friday — Christmas
26 Saturday
27 Sunday

Way to end the year- seaside and hills once again.Enjoy your planning and do share your stories- Happy journey- 2015 is the year for it.. 

PashaTuks Recommends- Simple and Wholesome Outings- Rajpath,New Delhi,India

The  sweaters, jackets, shawls and all other warm-wear have started showing up on human bodies once more. The sun feels good on our bodies as we walk around. Winter is creeping up on the northern hemisphere and the mood is festive.

Not all can take off and enjoy the weather,yet there are things that one could do to break the monotony of the routine on a day off from work without causing too much of a dent on the wallet.

Pashatuks  tried this yesterday and enjoyed themselves tremendously .

Lutyens Delhi, the part of the capital designed and built by  British architect Edwin Lutyen, pre independence, happens to be the most aesthetically built areas of the capital. Magnificent government buildings, bungalows  on either side of wide tree lined roads make a pretty picture if one is taking a drive around the area.

Yesterday Pashatuks concentrated on the stretch between Raisina Hills and India Gate, commonly known as Rajpath.

The grand trio - comprising of the secretariat buildings(north and south block) with the Rashtrapati Bhavan (the abode of the President) started the journey, heady on the senses with their sheer grandoise.

soaking in the ambiance can be a time consuming affair

The drive through the road leading to India Gate, the war memorial for all our fallen soldiers is a beautiful one with the imposing Parliament building on the left and various government buildings on both sides beyond the beautiful manicured lawns on either side of the stretch.

We park in the designated parking lot of India gate and wade through the sea of tourists, happy faces from all parts of the world and a thought strikes our minds- the entire world gathers here to see these and we local residents cant even take an afternoon off to appreciate what is offered to us freely.

Vendors selling trinkets galore right from battery operated horns glowing in the dark, to cycle-rickshaws made up of multi-coloured wires form a good time pass. And the food- ahh- street food at its best. Pashatuks recommends that you do not try it if your intestines are not lead lined. The tastiest street foods of Delhi beginning from the humble papad(if you bargain you even get 8 big ones for INR 20), sweet potatoes baked and served with a wide assortment of spices(a must taste specially in the winter months),bhelpuri(available throughout the year),momos(whoever eats momos at India Gate?),piping hot pakodas,paani puri,coffee, tea and many many more items. It can be a free for all picnic,sitting on the lovely lawns and watching the world go by and indulging in all the street foods of India. Time flies doing simply nothing as you soak in the winter sun and its time to wrap up the day.

PashaTuks intends to catch up on these seemingly insignificant yet so enjoyable little trips over the next few days, urging all you people to try it at least once when in Delhi.