Wednesday, 12 August 2015

Lazing around in Barog, Himachal Pradesh

Team Pashatuks settled in at Barog at the Pinewood Hotel run by the state tourism.
ever ready for anything new in terms of experience, we heard that the jaggery filled Indian bread deep fried in clarified butter(Gur parantha in desi ghee to the Indian reader) was an item which was a definite must do on the food list. And the name Chachus Dhaba was recommended for this item.
A little more on Hotel Pinewood- like most mountain hotels, this one too was at a slight elevation from the main road. What Pashatuks enjoyed was the different levels at which the property was divided.
The first level was closest to the road, and had a lovely cafeteria, where beer and wines  are served more than tea or coffee. lovely wrought iron chairs make this place picture perfect. Bottle brush trees all around set off the locale. We spent quite a while lazing around here, soaking in the silence and the sound of the mountain birds.
If you look at the backdrop the cafeteria also adheres to the typical hill building structure- sloping roof(though we were told by the locals that snow is rare in Barog).
Tea and coffee are still served in the good old fashioned British style of separate containers for milk and sugar.
Beyond this level is the administrative level with the ground floor rooms. All the rooms lead into a patch of green grass and some lovely misty mountain vistas. The steps leading up afforded many seating moments for us as we enjoyed the surrounding flowers. There is a lovely rose garden with roses in full bloom. In different hues. What captured our imagination was the hill bell flowers. the locals were not able to tell is the name- but we will find out soon.

The third level of the hotel has the dining room and a few rooms done up in wood with balconies that offer spectacular vistas.
We were amused to find that keeping in mind that the tourist might walk away with the linen, they were embossed with the signatures of the tourism department. Very professional. The only silly thing we found was that the pillow covers were over 2 years old as the pillow covers screamed 2013 in circa 2015. Rather unprofessional we found, but the saving grace was that they were spotlessly clean and sparkling white, despite being 2 year old.
The room rates are standard Govt. room rates, maybe a little on the higher side but worth ever bit of the money paid.One gets a 25 % off season discount.
Back to the Jaggery bread story. As described earlier, to get anyone one has to walk down to the main road, A couple of steps away from the main entrance to the hotel, the road bends and we come across a couple of shops- mostly eateries where the famed Chachus was. We walked in and found the place filled and not too clean. Although Pashatuks is very flexible on what they eat, they are a tad finicky about cleanliness of any eatery.
We walked out and were amused to see a billboard offering Chinese paranthas.
We stood wondering aloud what could possibly be the filling for the bread- noodles maybe, when a masculine voice spoke to us in perfect English that the original board was to have the word cheese, but due to an error by the painter(who we are sure must have been a chinese food freak),it got misspelled as Chinese. So the owner put a big  black comma between the two words, signifying that there was also Chinese fare available with the Paranthas.

We immediately warmed up to this owner  with a sense of humor as quirky as our own and requested him to set up a table outside his small Little Punjab cafe(dhabba ) and asked him if we could sample the famed Gur parantha of that belt.
Sweety his ever smiling roly poly wife answered in the affirmative but told us that they had run out of jaggery that afternoon.
And proceeded to feed us the yummiest meal that we had in the hills in a long long time

the Gur Prantha
As usual Team Pashatuks got chatting and we were surprised to learn that Lucky our Dhabba owner was actually working in one of the properties taking care of the construction there. His wife Sweety , converted her passion for cooking into full scale enterprise and they had opened the place a few months ago. The fact that the next shop was a liquor Vendor helps them to get good business.
The food was excellent undoubtedly, but what drew us back to this little cafe was the warmth with which they served the food- we felt that we were among friends, as they happily introduced us to the local hot shots- the liquor vendor, the chemist, the property dealer and the general store owner apart from their family members who had come visiting them.
The only place we ate during our stay at Barog

A bunch of ruffians came for food and wanted to sit where we were sitting, and we got a little tense seeing that they were more than happy with spirits inside them. We were touched beyond words as Lucky maneuvered them with a smiling face to the tiny space inside, thereby ensuring our meal in peace. We even were invited to his home upstairs where we spent some time with his children and came back satisfied from deep within..
Needless to stay we had all our meals with these friends, so cant really give a comparative evaluation with the famed Chachus, apart from the fact that we were not satisfied with the cleanliness bit.
Barog as a place has plenty to offer to travelers looking for long leisurely walks through the trails. We took a couple of them - unfortunately we were not able to walk up to the grave of Col. Barog the person after whom this place was named. Locals advised us against it as it was monsoons and lots of foliage growth could hamper the walk. This trip was not working out quite the way a typical Pashatuks trip works, high on Adrenalin rushes, new experiences and lots of stories for our readers, but this too was an experience. Tranquility on a trip- a new experience for us.We soaked in whatever bounty nature had to offer and looked forward to the next day, When we decided to go upto the Dagshai hills.





Monday, 10 August 2015

Destination Barog, Himachal Pradesh

Our curiosity about Barog was piqued when we saw some pictures of the place posted by a friend on a social networking site. A little research here and there and it became travel time once more.
Barog is a small place nestled on the Kalka Shimla route - 43 kms from Kalka towards Shimla.
Road access is better as one can drive up from Delhi via Chandigarh- Kalka and upto Barog(285 Km). There are VOLVO services also from Solan (7Kms from Barog) or Dharampur, Himachal (10 Kms before Barog). Officially Volvos do not stop at Barog  from Solan, but most of the times one can flag it down if one has a ticket from Solan. Pashatuks however does not recommend it, unless one is ready to be stranded,should the bus not stop.
The fare from Solan is around INR 700 and time taken is around 6 hours.Road conditions are fairly good.
The nearest airport is Chandigarh and then one has to take alternate modes of travel.
But team Pashatuks decided to take the train route this time and travel on the world heritage famed  toy train in that belt.
We decided to take the night train to Kalka and reach in time to catch either of the two trains leaving for Barog around that time. the Rail Motor Car- absolutely plush in the colonial style of years gone by.That leaves at 5.30 am and waits for the Kalka Mail should it get delayed. Theres another train around the same time at 6 am, which is rather Indian but whose first class coaches offer absolute privacy.
For people who like to travel during the day - its possible to do the toy train if one takes the Kalka Shatabdi and then boards the toy train leaving around 12 noon.
A sense of travelling back in time takes place as the shrill whistle from the guard makes us realise that its time for the train to start.its upward journey.
We settle in our seats and start gobbling down piping hot railway veg cutlets and bread. Breakfast at 6 am in the morning? Ah well Pashatuks is known to start the day with rum and coke at that time when theres no tea to wake us up.
The train chugs its way up at a speed of around 12 Kms per hour tooting intermittently - slowing down a the multiple bends and tunnels. Tokens are still exchanged at different stations - those big rings that we have grown up seeing in the coal engine days. Mountains in the monsoon are the most beautiful but also the most dangerous.
The lush green of the Himalayan flora with the mist floating all around the mountains,rising from the valley floating over towards the mountain top.
The first stop is Dharampur- a quaint and beautiful station- with wooden station buildings under conical slopes and climbers in full bloom. One is confident about getting down because of two things- the train staff know all passengers and will not leave you behind . Secondly even if you do get left behind, you can run alongside and board the train- though a certain level of fitness is required for this activity.
At this point , we realized that there is no motor-able road to the railway station at Barog. One has to either walk up for 15 minutes to the main road for further transport or go down another 15 minutes for the same.So we took an instant decision to travel upto Solan where we got a Cab and came back to Barog.


Barog station is one of the prettiest railway stations on this route The station comes just at the end of the longest tunnel on the journey.
Its the prettiest station on this journey with golden shower flowers strewn all around. The station also has the beautiful railway holiday home built there.
One can book for accommodation at very reasonable rates , provided one has a confirmed booking on any train in that route.

Jaywalking on the railway tracks is considered to be a dangerous activity but once in a while, it adds to the spice of life as one becomes a child once more.The train stopped for a good 15 minutes at this lovely quaint station and we had our fill of hot snacks, tea and walking into the tunnel and imagining the ghost of Col. Barog walking up to us and shaking our hands in welcome.
We did suffer a pang or two of regret as we realized that we could have stayed in the railway holiday home.. The train started and we clambered aboard illegally.Our tickets were booked upto Barog- whereas we decided to travel to Solan. Indian Railways have abolished the system of ticket extension on the train and charge full fare for a new ticket. Paying hundreds of rupees for a 4 kilometer ride didnt appeal to team Pashatuks and we just bribed the train ticket checker a princely sum of INR 100 and we carried on to Solan.
Only to realize that no one checks tickets on these journeys.
We had hired a car at Solan to pick us up and take us to Pinewood Hotel the state tourism run hotel.
There are 2 hotels worth mentioning about apart from the hotel we stayed in.
Barog Heights and Pinewood grove.
Pinewood Hotel run by the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Department is the oldest property of that  area and the most lavish one.
Accommodation is in either wooden finish or carpet finish rooms. Each room has a balcony offering a spectacular view of the himalayas beyond.





Theres not much to do in Barog except taking leisurely walks on different mountain trails. Or hire a cab and go upto the Buddhist Monastery, check out the heritage temple(Pashatuks avoids temple visits),
One could spend hours sitting in the lawns of the hotel we stayed in,sitting on the wrought iron chairs and having beer, wine, tea or coffee with a wide assortment of snacks.
We went for a walk on the main road expecting it to be isolated, as in all small hill station, but we were in for a rude shock. High speed vehicles from the plains zip past with absolute disregard for hill driving rules. The locals complain of the brashness of the plains people but since they add to the economy, not much is done about it. And Barog is on the main road to Shimla, the summer capital of the British Raj.

.