One of the hidden gems in the name of tiger terrain lies
nestled in the district of Chandrapur in Maharashtra. There are over 60 tigers
in the Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve and wildlife enthusiasts swear by regular
sightings of the big cat.
Now Team Pashatuks has always had extremely bad Karma at
Tiger sighting but the lust for exploring the unexplored won over better
judgement and Pashatuks got moving on yet another journey.
The nearest railhead is Ballarshah, 50 Kms from the reserve
and airport Nagpur, 140 kms from Tadoba.
We chose to travel by train upto Nagpur and then go by road
from there. We had heard that the drive
was a beautiful one and we did not want to miss out on the experience.
Bulk of the road journey was on the main highway between
Nagpur and Hyderabad and we were suitably impressed by the road condition as we
sped on towards Tadoba. The roads were excellent- specially as we were prepared
for bad roads considering that we were travelling post monsoon.
There was a lot of greenery on both sides of the road ,
soothing to the eyes and the weather sultry.
All too soon we got off the main highway and got into the
smaller but well maintained road that
led us to Tadoba. A special mention must be made out of the visuals that we
managed to soak in.
Lush green cotton fields- most of it in full bloom – vast
expanses of paddy fields stretching into the low mountains beyond. Clear blue
skies with pristine white clouds gaily sailing by made some very beautiful
vignettes.
Beautiful yellow flowers growing wildly by the roadside,
interesting old buildings at cross roads gave an ethereal feel to the whole drive. It
was as if we were caught in a time warp
Each cross road that we passed by had some unique defining
character. Difficult to explain but to a discerning eye, very visible. The Gond rulers stamp is very visible in the
old buildings that still remain standing.
Soon we were at the first check – post, where we had to get
the vehicles registered for entry and we were officially inside the premises
of Tadoba sanctuary. Tadoba is one of the 47
sanctuaries of the project Tiger fame.
We were entering through the Mohurli
gate and had booked our accommodation in the IRAI safari retreat. On the way we
did spot some more resorts, but what our impression was that accommodation
still needs to be developed in the area if the sanctuary is looking for a
larger visitor influx. And because accommodation is probably limited, it’s a blessing
in disguise as the area is still unspoilt by rowdy senseless crowds.
We encountered our first traffic jam- stage managed to
perfection by the aggressive bovines, who refused to give us way and went about
lifting their tails and littering the road with their droppings. No civic sense
in these creatures by God!
IRAI safari retreat, gave us a first feel of what to expect
as we drove into the eco friendly gates and were greeted smilingly by the
cherubic manager couple- Rajesh and Deepika.. The staff were all clad in jungle fatigues and our
excitement levels were building up as we walked through the lush premises of
the resort – right up to our tented accommodation.
IRAI safari retreat has a huge waterbody as a premise on one
side. A vast expanse of clear water which is the home of many edible varieties
of fish. And crocodiles. There are two types of accommodation – the cottages
and the tents. The rack rates are slightly on the steeper side,but the resort is open to negotiation. We got a 40% discount. We chose to stay in the tents, which were fully air-conditioned
with attached western toilets. All modern amenities that come with any good
hotel room are available in the tent including a fridge and safe.
The living space in the tent can accommodate 3 people
comfortably as each tent has a double bed and a sofa cum bed. Pegged to the
ground by strong ropes the tents are built on logs, giving it an elevation
which kept all the bugs at bay. Each tent has an attached sit out with ethnic
furniture and an tiny air cooler to keep the visitor from perspiring.
Not exactly the Pashatuks idea of living in tents, but we
are flexible people and can adjust to all situations once out on a wandering
spree.
The olive green fabric of the tent gives a very jungle
finish and the chilled living space makes the lazy travelers want to stay
inside. And maybe cool off in the swimming pool that is open to inmates .
The meals are all had at the dining room which has a lovely British
feel, main hall surrounded by a lovely sit out where ethnic low seating is
organized, bright cushions strewn all around – the furniture looks typical of
the British Era-dark wood(probably teak), clearly defined lines- the entire
ambiance makes one feel like a brown sahib, wanting to wear jungle fatigues and
donning the toupee and go hunting for tigers with a double barrel gun.
The sanctuary is open to visitors from 15th
October – 30th June each year. Private vehicles are allowed, however
our personal experience says that its best to hire the open air gypsies for a
more authentic feel. Each vehicle costs INR 4000 and is inclusive of all entry
and guide charges . It is important to remember here that bookings are done on
the spot also, apart from online booking. Only 30 vehicles per gate per day are
allowed(there are 2 entry gates), so there is always a rush for the open gypsies during
season time.
The best time to visit any Tiger reserve are the dry months where the wildlife are spotting near the watering holes. We had gone just post monsoon, where there was a lot of undergrowth and water and fodder available for the big cats. In addition there were fresh cubs in the park and so the tigresses were not venturing out. Mentally we gave into the idea that there would be no sighting.
What we did not bargain for was that all animals had the same mentality. Barring a few spotted deer and a huge Gaur bull, we resigned ourselves and enjoyed the lovely drive through the mud tracks, lush bamboo and Sal trees.
The whole area was fragrant with the smell of fresh basil, which was growing profusely on both sides of the tracks, as tall as 6 feet each. We marveled at what the locals call the "ghost"tree- a tree that had shades of pink, yellow, flame , green and orange in totality.
The rules of all jungles under the Indian forest Act are the same for all jungles,So we were not allowed to get off the vehicles and littering the jungles,
The team was of course kitted for the jungle in muted colours that blended with the terrain with caps and lots of sunscreen lotion splashed all over the exposed parts of the body. No taking chances with sunburns or heat-strokes.
The drive itself was so very beautiful that no one in the team had the heart to crib about the big cats not showing up. All too soon the safari was over and we were back to the resort.
For a price the resort packs up a picnic hamper of sandwiches and coffee to be consumed while waiting silently for wildlife sightings.
This journey of Pashatuks had us experiencing one of the unique events in a city dwellers life- a bullock cart ride - the IRAI resort people upon our request managed to procure bullock carts from the villagers and the entire team managed to get an experience of a lifetime as we boarded the rickety carts drawn by gaily decorated bullocks and ride into the country side as the entire village ran along behind us amazed to see such unadulterated glee on our faces.The villagers were not the only ones to run along with us.
The cows grazing on the fields, jolted out of their bovine natures by all the noise and commotion decided to join us , causing a lot of stressful moments for some team members sitting on the outer periphery of the carts. The carts can be hired for as low as 700 rupees and can seat upto 6 adults.
Soon it was time to hit back for destination home and we all returned the same way as we came in. Pashatuks recommends this destination for any traveler who wants to relax and laze on a vacation with all the comforts of city life amidst rural settings. It is important to remember that Dist. Chandrapur is a dry state and alcohol consumption is frowned upon. However within the premises of the resort,if one is a bit discrete and doesnt create nuisance, one can get away with it. However if the authorities catch you- dont say we didnt warn you!
